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Arnegunde Ensemble
A brief overview
While I complete the documentation
proper, here is an overiew of the tunic and the caftan.
The Tunic
Utilising rectangular construction, this tunic is made of
100% linen fabric.
We have no real information on the construction of the
original, as the only evidence of this layer is a small number of fibres
in corroding metal. In light of this lack of information I chose to
use the rectangular method of construction. I believed this to be a
reasonable choice based on roughly contemporary Viking finds and also
efficiency of fabric use.
The original is believed to be a shade of purple, but
composed of a linen warp and a mixed weft consisting of both silk and
cotton. Although linen-cotton and silk-linen fabrics were available,
I was keen to avoid plaids and so compromised on fibre content with the
vibrantly purple 100% linen.
The tunic fits closely at the wrist, follows the line
of body through the torso and flares, using gores, to the ground.
The length of the tunic is contrary to many other interpretations of
the Arnegunde funeral attire, but I believe the longer garment is more
likely given the surrounding fashions (in both time and place). The
reasons behind my decision are explained fully in the documentation
proper.
The Caftan
Made of red wool, and again using rectangular construction,
the edges of this garment are bound in matching red silk.
Somewhat more full than the tunic, the caftan is slightly
shorter. This was done to allow a flash of purple around the hem,
and to save the silk binding from wear.
Constructed to meet at centre front, the caftan is fastened
by two matching brooches - fantastic reproductions of the originals by
Raymonds Quiet Press.
The cuff embroidery is gold thread couched onto some
larger pieces of the binding silk. The ends for each gold
thread are pulled through to the back of the fabric and secured, while the
couching is done by mustard coloured 100% cotton thread.
The original garment's cuffs are believed to have been
couched to silk and then the silk ground attached to the silk
caftan.
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