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Per Mano Isabel Maria: Documentation Summary - Arnegunde Ensemble



Documentation Summary

 

Arnegunde Ensemble
A brief overview


While I complete the documentation proper, here is an overiew of the tunic and the caftan.

 

The Tunic

Underarm Gusset on Linen TunicUtilising rectangular construction, this tunic is made of 100% linen fabric. 

We have no real information on the construction of the original, as the only evidence of this layer is a small number of fibres in corroding metal.  In light of this lack of information I chose to use the rectangular method of construction.  I believed this to be a reasonable choice based on roughly contemporary Viking finds and also efficiency of fabric use.

The original is believed to be a shade of purple, but composed of a linen warp and a mixed weft consisting of both silk and cotton.  Although linen-cotton and silk-linen fabrics were available, I was keen to avoid plaids and so compromised on fibre content with the vibrantly purple 100% linen.

The tunic fits closely at the wrist, follows the line of body through the torso and flares, using gores, to the ground.  The length of the tunic is contrary to many other interpretations of the Arnegunde funeral attire, but I believe the longer garment is more likely given the surrounding fashions (in both time and place).  The reasons behind my decision are explained fully in the documentation proper. 

 

The Caftan

Made of red wool, and again using rectangular construction, the edges of this garment are bound in matching red silk.

Silk Binding on CaftanSomewhat more full than the tunic, the caftan is slightly shorter.  This was done to allow a flash of purple around the hem, and to save the silk binding from wear.

Constructed to meet at centre front, the caftan is fastened by two matching brooches - fantastic reproductions of the originals by Raymonds Quiet Press.

Gold embroideryThe cuff embroidery is gold thread couched onto some larger pieces of the binding silk.  The ends for each gold thread are pulled through to the back of the fabric and secured, while the couching is done by mustard coloured 100% cotton thread. 

The original garment's cuffs are believed to have been couched to silk and then the silk ground attached to the silk caftan. 

 


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