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Per Mano Isabel Maria: Documentation Summary - French Gown

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Some pictures of the 1570s French Gown

 

A brief progression of my favourite features on this gown.

 

 

The Bodice Tabs 

attaching tabs

 

 

The various tabs. Waist and front tabs are sewn in place, while the tabs over the shoulder are pinned in place waiting to be folded over and secured.

 

As you can see, the outer velvet fabric has been hand basted to the cotton canvas interlining.  The layers for each piece are hand stitched together before being hemmed around the edges by machine - for speed and convenience. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

mini-tabs attached

 

 

 

The mini-tabs around the neck and front opening have been stitched in place, and a thin ribbon of paj silk has been carefully folded and then threaded through the tiny tabs around the neck and down the front opening  Isn't it pretty!

 

 

 

 

 

The Skirt Guards and Beading 

 

hem guard

 

 

This absolutely stunning latice styled, metallic thread trim was very carefully ironed into a curve that echoed that of the hem.  In order to make it "pop" against the silk brocade, a layer of silk fabric was cut in a curve to match (the braid and hem) and layed behind the trim before they were both hand stitched it to the forepart.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

forepart beading

 

 

A sample of the beading on the forepart. As you can see, a combination of metal 'sead' beads, (sadly plastic) sead pearls and (similarly plastic) spangles have been used to emphasise the silk brocade pattern. 

It was unfortunate that I had to use plastic instead of proper pearls and gold spangles, but availability and cost were insurmountable problems at the time. 

 

 

 


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